The Overberg is one of the most scenic and majestic parts of the Western Cape. Whether you're driving up the N2 to hidden coastal idylls such as Cape Infanta or Vleesbaai or venturing inland via Robertson and Montague to equally exquisite mountainous hideaways, the landscape is breathtaking.
While this area is famed for its awe-inspiring views, it’s never been an area associated with top-quality cuisine. Don’t get me wrong — good, sumptuous country-style food has been abundantly available, but there's an emerging clutch of young professionals producing food worthy of the destination. I happily discovered a few on a recent road trip.
AGTEROS
“Agteros” refers to an Afrikaans saying: “the last ox also gets into the kraal”. The idiom emphasises the importance of perseverance and patience in life. Our experience at Agteros started serendipitously. We found ourselves in Stanford on a magnificent Sunday afternoon, but all the recommended eateries were fully booked.
Before giving up and eating pies, one of the amiable restaurant staff suggested we try Agteros, having heard good things about the new place. She wasn’t wrong!
Agteros is in an unassuming house in Queen Victoria Street. Its décor is an eclectic mix of old and new — modern art, antique mirrors, dried sheep heads, bare wooden tables and chairs and simple, functional table settings. Clearly a labour of love, not “put together” on a designer’s mood board.
Chef Janine van der Nest devised a fabulous offering that reflects the famous South African generosity of spirit. It’s the best expression of modern South African cuisine I’ve experienced outside Bertus Basson’s Eike in Stellenbosch. Reading the menu, I was grateful none of the other restaurants could accommodate us.
From the moment the roosterkoek and masala butter were delivered to the table I knew we were in for a sublime treat.
This delectable doughy morsel with spiced butter was followed by various small plates. We sampled a smoorsnoek samoosa, burnt lime butter and tamaletjie harissa — a superb combination of crisp, sweet, salty and sour which, like the masala butter, was more expertly perfumed than a punch of heat.
The coal-roasted onion, babotie cream, almond and puffed rice was a rich delight of textures and caramelisation. My favourite of the meal was unquestionably the skaap tongetjie and stertjie, lemon confit, curds and kayangs — a “nose to tail” sensation.
When dealing with obscure ingredients, you have to know what you’re doing, and chef Janine clearly does. The tails must be soft and gelatinous but not feel like they’ve been boiled for hours. And if the tails are melt-in-the-mouth gorgeous, the texture of the perfectly poached tongue will prove an equal delight. The acidic curd and confit were just the right foil to the richness of the protein, while the crispy kayangs added another textural element to the dish.
For our main course, we opted for the linefish (hottentot — locally and sustainably caught), mealie chowder, potato and seaweed puffs. The fish was expertly cooked with a crisp skin, served on a rich, expertly seasoned chowder. The puffed potato and seaweed made a welcome textural accompaniment.
The lamb belly ribs, sourdough pangrattato (sexy term for breadcrumbs), anchovy and aubergine cream dish was a triumph. The ribs were expertly charred, fat deliciously rendered and generously seasoned. I'm a fan of lamb and anchovy as a combination and this dish took it to another level.
The fig tart and fruitcake ice cream was an indulgence, but out of curiosity I sampled chef Janine’s deft touch on the sweeter side — and was enraptured.
The outstanding cuisine was matched by the warm service and, at R600 a head including tip (we brought our wine), the meal was money well spent.
I’d like to think that, come the end of a languid afternoon, we embodied the name Agteros. We were patient, we persevered and we made it.
Open: Wednesday and Sunday, 7am-4pm
Contact: 073-367-6371
KAPOKBOS
My first visit to Kapokbos (named after the snow bush or wild rosemary found naturally in the koppies on the farm) was a welcome, unexpected surprise, which happened on a leisurely day off while shooting The Ultimate Braai Master in Robertson in 2023. We were in search of sustenance when one of the wine farm tasting rooms directed us towards Kapokbos on Weltevrede Estate. The farm is a marvel and has won design and sustainability awards. Kapokbos restaurant had won awards in its own right as a component of this impressive estate.
In the two years since my first lunch at Kapokbos, the restaurant has grown in depth and execution of food and service. We visited again one autumn afternoon with Sam, our Labrador, who was treated with a friendly welcome.
Chef couple Juan Fourie and Samantha Morris-Fourie first impressed us with the bread course. The whipped beurre noisette accompanying the freshly baked bread could have been lunch itself.
We started with what's now one of their signature dishes: skaapstertjies, labneh, curried pickled onions and spekboom. The combination of the rich, fatty tails, the acidic creaminess of the labneh and the sharpness of the curried pickled onions was exemplary.
The unctuous and smooth duck liver parfait, kumquat preserve and crispy salt crackers was a good representation of “less is more”.
I noticed some improvements in the main courses. There's been a refinement in the plating and the portions enable you to enjoy three courses, as opposed to one main course wat skrik vir niks. The slow-roasted pork belly, autumn pumpkin, parsnip, quince, pumpkin seeds and sage illustrated this. Tender, moist, rolled and roasted belly, supported by charred pumpkin and sweet, sharp quince purée was autumn on a plate.
The pan-fried carpenter with sweetcorn and potato chowder was equally delicious and left us enough space to contemplate the next course.
Before ending on dessert, I have to say, the hallmark of our Overberg experience was the excellent level of service. Kapokbos was no exception.
Chef Juan recommended the malva pudding, Amarula Cream, caramel and rooibos, and the guava and custard. Guava textures, custard mousse, vanilla sponge and pistachio — who were we to argue?
The malva was an extraordinary delight — a light, delicious sponge that takes you back to ouma’s kitchen. Throw in remarkable Amarula Cream and you have a singular reason to drive to Bonnievale.
Chef Juan said the guava and custard was an attempt to recreate a childhood favourite of tinned guavas and UltraMel custard. If my childhood ever tasted this good, I'd have turned out far more well-adjusted.
I look forward to my next visit.
Open: Tuesday to Saturday, 12-4pm, and Sunday, 12-3.30pm
Tel: 023-100-4182
LA SOSTA
Unassuming pockets of excellence can be found in strange places, provided you keep your ears and eyes open. I’d heard whisperings about a fabulous Italian restaurant in Swellendam, but when my good friend chef George Jardine insisted we give it a try I made it a non-negotiable stop on our road trip.
In addition to the meals already described, dinner at La Sosta turned out to be the highlight of the holiday, which included braaiing, reading and lazing around.
La Sosta is a subtle, understated, cosy 20-seater gold nugget run by married couple — Italian and South African chefs Salvatore and Nina Branda.
The concise menu offers antipasti, primi piatti, secondi piatti and dessert.
Two, three or four courses are on offer and, at a meagre R685 for four courses, our course was set.
The menu appears traditional, but the cooking and presentation are modern — not in a molecular mumbo jumbo way, but in terms of a cooking style that stresses simplicity and elegance, drawing on traditional influences and combinations, while sublimely elevating them.
We began with a magical focaccia of pure crusts with the lightest whipped butter dusted with a subtle fennel powder.
Our antipasti were local porcini flan and pecorino romano “fonduta” with Karoo almonds.
This dish was a glorious expression of locally foraged wild mushrooms and had a rich, creamy base.
The grilled baby calamari, potato espuma, confit tomatoes and fine beans featured delectable sautéed squid set in a potato sauce with a sharp cherry tomato confit that bought the dish together.
Our primi piatti were carnaroli risotto, prawns, organic citrus butter and squid ink — a highlight of the meal. Risotto is difficult to get right, but once mastered it’s delicious. This risotto was flawless.
The handmade cappelletti stuffed with eight-hour white ragu (veal and pork) and grano padano sauce wasn’t far behind. The richness of the filling combined with the balance of the sauce was cooking rooted in tradition. but given an edge.
Our secondi piatti consisted of sublimely cooked pan-seared fish of the day (carpenter, locally and sustainably caught), chickpeas, confit peppers, celery and citrus white wine sauce.
The combination of flavours and textures made an exquisite dish.
The chef’s special was our other secondi. The free-range, slow-cooked pork belly, confit porcini, potato and nduja croquette, braised baby onions and jus was a triumph of traditional technique.
All was accompanied by attentive and professional staff who offered a superb wine list showcasing local wines.
La Sosta’s tiramisu was the champion of the evening. The traditional elements of this dessert — mascarpone, coffee and biscuit — explain why the name means “pick me up”.
La Sosta picked us up and transported us to another plane — the delicate pillow of ethereal whipped mascarpone with a dusting of cocoa on the thinnest, crispiest base of dark biscuit crumble and silky, coffee-infused custard.
Open: Tuesday to Saturday, 6.30pm-8pm
Contact: 073-899-6912/lasostarestaurant@gmail.com
These pockets of culinary excellence are now firmly on the map of the best things to experience in this region. The Overberg has overachieved.
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