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TravelPREMIUM

Caribbean cruising: It's the port that counts

Sailing with Norwegian Cruise Line out of Miami, Allison Foat hits the highlights of three Caribbean islands — and one private playground in the Bahamas

Typical Cuban restaurant in Little Havana, Miami.
Typical Cuban restaurant in Little Havana, Miami. (kmiragaya / 123rf.com)

MIAMI, FLORIDA

Miami is flashy and culturally diverse, with an art scene that will blow your hair back. For first-timers, the coolest intro to the city is Café La Trova in Little Havana for the best of Cuban everything — highly recommended by locals. This festive restaurant and live-music venue is low on tourists, high on atmosphere and full of surprises, such as when the bar crew swaps cocktail shakers for trumpets and gets jazzy behind the counter.

The art scene in the city is sumptuous and Wynwood is the go-to district for flamboyant street art that will sate your arty appetite. Fussy coffee aficionados will find their flat white fixes at Panther Coffee outlets dotted around Wynwood, Little Haiti, Coconut Grove and on Biscayne Boulevard. A trip to Miami would not be complete without taking in the Art Deco District and South Beach, and settling in to jazz afternoons at The Betsy Hotel. This art‑filled retreat right on Ocean Drive, blends classic elegance with a vibrant cultural programme and lures well-heeled guests with its rooftop pool, literary salons, and refined dining — all within walking distance of South Beach’s lively art deco scene.

For a proudly South African moment, head to the Design District to ogle Michael Chandler’s magnificent hand-painted tile mural on Cult Gaia’s store façade. The Cape Town-based creative brought a unique touch to the boutique with his Tree of Life artwork, a motif comprising 1,800 tiles, which drew inspiration from the owner's Persian roots. 

The Design District is also a hot culinary destination. At Elastika in the historic Moore building, dining happens beneath an installation by Zaha Hadid, a Pritzker Architecture Prize winner. The 10m-long, 8m-high structure — after which the restaurant was named — resembles a futuristic, organic wave and takes the experience to another level. 

For those looking to stretch their ZAR in Wynwood, Marine Layer is a go-to for soft, casual staples like tees and shirts — higher quality than fast fashion but still reasonably priced. Wynwood Shop offers locally made clothing, jewellery, and accessories, with many items under $25, making it a great stop for unique, budget-friendly finds. Studs Wynwood specialises in stylish earrings and piercing services in a sleek, modern space — perfect for trendy, affordable jewellery.

PUERTO PLATA, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Donkey at the San Felipe Fortress in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic.
Donkey at the San Felipe Fortress in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic. Donkey at the San Felipe Fortress in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic. (dlrz4114 / 123rf.com/dlrz4114 / 123rf.com)

Between the ocean and the mountains along the lush northern coast of the Dominican Republic, Puerto Plata marries history and heritage with natural beauty. It’s a fascinating and charming little town from the cable-car ride up to Mount Isabel de Torres for sweeping views to the fascinating 16th-century Fortaleza San Felipe fortress (now a museum). Throw in the pristine beaches such as Playa Sosua and the caves of Mount Isabel and there is much to do and see, if time permits.

If you’re on the clock then settle for an amble downtown, 15 minutes from the port. Cobbled streets are lined with buildings from the Victorian era, prettily painted in pastels and murals. Independence Square sits at the heart of the historic centre with benches beneath the trees, beribboned vintage lampposts, and national monuments galore, like the neoclassical Cathedral of San Felipe and the octagonal gazebo with its Moorish arches.

The gazebo on Independence Square in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic.
The gazebo on Independence Square in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic. The gazebo on Independence Square in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic. (Allison Foat/Allison Foat)
The writer walks down Umbrella Street in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic.
The writer walks down Umbrella Street in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic. The writer walks down Umbrella Street in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic. (Allison Foat/Allison Foat)

Umbrella Street, a few minutes from the piazza (follow the signs), created to encourage a culture of positivity, cements the happy vibe as you stroll under bright parasols. Pause for gelato or a café con leche along the way. Paseo de Doña Blanca, also known as the Pink Street, is the second Instagram lure. This small alley is painted entirely in pink as a tribute to the founder of the first hotel in Puerto Plata, The Europa, founded in 1898.

ST THOMAS, US VIRGIN ISLANDS

St Thomas harbour in the US Virgin Islands.
St Thomas harbour in the US Virgin Islands. St Thomas harbour in the US Virgin Islands. (Allison Foat/Allison Foat)

The capital, Charlotte Amalie, is a stone’s throw from Havensight Pier, which is also the pickup point for taxis ready to whisk you to the key sights. Downtown is a historical trove with architecture and precinct names such as Kongens Kvarter (King’s Quarter), which stem from St Thomas’s days as a Danish settlement. Some of the buildings are dilapidated, others well restored, but all possess an authentic charm.

A popular tourist site is the “99 Steps”, actually 103 steps and one of several “step streets” built by the Danes for easier movement up and down the hilly terrain. This one leads up to Blackbeard’s Castle, a watchtower built on Government Hill in 1679, touted as one of the island’s most visited landmarks. Beyond all the historical assets lie the gorgeous beaches that are a main attraction for the 1.5 million cruise liner passengers who visit St. Thomas annually. Of these, Magens Bay is lauded as one of the best. Expect the typical clear, turquoise waters and soft white sand and pelicans precision-diving for fish, completely unperturbed by bathers. (Note that a taxi ride from Downtown to Magens Bay costs $25 and factor in an additional $7 to access the beach.)

TORTOLA, BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

A street in Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands.
A street in Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands. A street in Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands. (byvalet / 123rf.com/byvalet / 123rf.com)

In mountainous Tortola, ships dock in Road Town on the southern coast, where a huge new shopping complex has been built to encourage disembarking passengers to part with their plastic. To get to Road Town, take a taxi and note that the steep streets and nerve-racking hairpin bends are best navigated by a local when you’re exploring beyond the city limits.

Stop by the Old Government House Museum with its period furniture, paintings and exhibits. If rum is your poison, tour the Callwood Distillery, where the legendary tipple has been produced since the 1700s. Blissful beach time is also a thing here and Brewer’s Beach is a favourite with excellent snorkelling conditions in clear waters around the reef, and the impressive ruins of several sugar cane plantations of old. For a nature fix, the JR O’Neal Botanical Gardens offer a serene escape and showcase palms and exotic species. An added bonus is that entry is only $3 per person.

GREAT STIRRUP CAY, BAHAMAS

Located in the Berry Islands of the Bahamas and owned by NCL since the '70s, Great Stirrup Cay is a private island for the exclusive use of the line's guests. There are several excursions to choose from, including swimming with stingrays and touring the Berries. My pick? Swimming with pigs! At $207 (about R3,800) per person, though, this is a carefully considered outing that comes with high expectations. The pigs were deposited decades ago on what is known as Treasure Island, where — animal lovers will be comforted to know — the happy hogs are clearly living their best lives. Being able to feed and see cute piglets up close is a delight but swimming with them is the highlight.

How it works is that the Pig Squad (pig minders) toss apple chunks around bathers in the shallows while the pigs swim about snatching up the fruity treats. The downside is that no-one is allowed to take their own pictures or video. That gets done by a third-party company, and the images are uploaded onto their website for purchase. The photos are expensive, in anyone’s currency, but discounts do kick in after a month or so. After the piggy paddling fun, tender boats ferry everyone back to the main island, just 10 minutes away, for a slap-up buffet in true NCL style. 

ABOUT THE SHIP

Norwegian Encore cruises the Caribbean.
Norwegian Encore cruises the Caribbean. Norwegian Encore cruises the Caribbean. (NCL/NCL)

Norwegian Encore is the fourth ship in Norwegian’s Breakaway Plus fleet. Accommodating close to 4,000 guests, it is one of the biggest and boldest ships sailing today. Expect a hyperactive experience with a smorgasbord of options and lively on-board entertainment to keep the entire family busy for a festive week at sea. Don’t miss world-class shows like the Prince tribute, entitled Revolution, and The Choir of Man, which delivers a British pub-inspired vibe with live music and storytelling.

The ship’s varied offering is a mix of adrenaline and relaxation — from the go-kart track and laser-tag arena to the immersive Galaxy Pavilion VR zone. If you’re after peace and quiet, cocoon yourself in the expansive spa where the Thermal Suite and Vitality pool soothes and restores. With contemporary interiors, stylish cabins and varied dining options, Encore is the ideal way to holiday and explore some of the Caribbean’s most beautiful islands. See ncl.com.

• Foat was a guest of Norwegian Cruise Line. 


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