When South Africans dream of a tropical island escape, Mauritius and Zanzibar often top the list. They’re easy, familiar and loved for good reason — cocktails on the beach, coral reefs and sunset dhow cruises. But what if you’re after something a little less polished and a lot more wild? Just a short direct flight from Johannesburg lies Nosy Be, Madagascar’s laid-back, under-the-radar island where lemurs leap, fishermen still paddle traditional pirogues, and you can lose track of time on beaches you won’t have to share with anyone.
WHAT’S SPECIAL ABOUT NOSY BE?
It’s rare these days to find a tropical island that still feels untouched — but Nosy Be wears its scruffy charm with pride. It's the largest of several islets off Madagascar’s northwest coast, hence its name, which means 'Big Island' in Malagasy. This is a place where natural forests roll down to quiet coves, rum punches are served on unpretentious beach decks, and the word authentic hasn’t been wrung dry by marketing teams.
Nosy Be is the kind of place where no-one cares if you show up to lunch barefoot, and sunset isn’t a curated event with a DJ, it’s just you, the horizon, and maybe a passing pirogue.
Geographically, it’s part of an archipelago, and while the main island is lovely, it’s the nearby islets that give the Nosy Be experience its magic. Hop on a boat to Nosy Tanikely, a marine reserve with some of Madagascar’s best snorkelling — think technicolour coral gardens, giant groupers and curious turtles. Or spend a morning hiking the trails of Lokobe National Park, one of the last remaining pockets of Sambirano rainforest, where the rare black lemur, a species found only in this part of Madagascar, swings through the canopy and vibrant panther chameleons lurk among the leaves.
For those chasing postcard beaches, Andilana Beach is the island’s best stretch of sand, while the smaller islets of Nosy Iranja — reachable by speedboat — is a dream of white sandbars, turquoise shallows, and zero crowds.
THE DIVING SCENE
Diving is one of the island’s biggest, yet still under publicised, treasures. Nosy Be quietly offers some of the best sites in the Indian Ocean.
Nosy Tanikely Marine Reserve is ideal for beginners and snorkellers, with its shallow reefs, technicolour fish and playful turtles. More advanced divers should head for the Mitsio Archipelago, an hour north by boat, where vertical walls and coral pinnacles teem with barracuda, stingrays and reef sharks.
Perhaps the crown jewel of Nosy Be diving is Castor Bank, a submerged reef 15km offshore where sightings of giant groupers, eagle rays and even the occasional hammerhead are possible. Diving here feels like a frontier experience.
The best diving season is October to December and March to May, when water visibility stretches to 30m and sea conditions are glassy calm. A handful of reputable dive operators based in Ambatoloaka cater to small groups, and the atmosphere is friendly and fuss-free with experienced locals who know every reef by heart.
SNORKELLING
You don’t have to be a diver to discover the underwater magic of Nosy Be. At nearby Nosy Sakatia, you can float gently above a group of green turtles as they graze on seagrass, completely at ease in their natural habitat. There are plenty of other stunning snorkelling spots around the island, all easily reached by boat, and some lodges are lucky enough to have their own vibrant house reefs just steps from shore.
WORLD-CLASS FISHING
Nosy Be’s waters are legendary among sportfishing enthusiasts yet remain surprisingly uncrowded. The island’s position within the Mozambique Channel, with its deep drop-offs and island chains, creates an underwater playground for serious anglers. Expect giant trevally, dogtooth tuna, king mackerel, sailfish and, in deeper waters, the elusive marlin.
Dedicated anglers come for the thrill of catching giant trevally using surface and deep-water techniques — it’s termed 'popping and jigging for GT — particularly around the Mitsio Islands and Radama Archipelago. It's fast, physical and fiercely addictive.
The lack of mass tourism has meant the waters remain relatively unpressured and catch rates here consistently outperform many more famous Indian Ocean destinations.
The best months for fishing are October to December and April to June, when conditions are at their calmest and migratory species peak. Specialist operators offer fully guided, multi-day trips with seasoned skippers. For visiting groups, a live-aboard charter is arguably the ultimate experience — chasing giant trevally at dawn, anchoring in deserted lagoons by noon, and swapping fish stories over rum on deck come sunset.
A WILD MIX OF CULTURE AND NATURE
Nosy Be is still a working, living place. The scent of ylang-ylang and vanilla hangs in the air, rum distilleries clink into life each morning and roadside markets sell everything from mangoes to handwoven hats. There’s a strong sense of Malagasy culture here. Traditional fomba (customs) and ancestor reverence shape daily life, and village festivals can spring up without notice — a riot of music, dance and communal cooking. Locals gather on weekends for moraingy, an ancient form of bare-knuckle boxing with its own rituals and songs. Even a simple beachside meal of grilled seafood and peppery sakay (a fiery Malagasy chilli paste) feels rooted in place and tradition.
SPACE, CHARACTER AND EXCLUSIVITY
Here’s the important thing to know about Nosy Be: it’s not a budget island, precisely because it hasn’t been overrun by mass tourism. You won’t find rows of all-inclusive resorts or last-minute package deals here. What you do get for your money is space, character and exclusivity. Small beachfront lodges, owner-run guest houses and boutique properties are the norm — often with only a handful of rooms and a far more personal island experience. While a stay in Nosy Be might cost a little more, you’re paying for something rare: a tropical island where you can still snorkel a pristine reef solo, sip rum under a baobab tree with no playlist in the background, and swim with turtles in a bay you won’t have to share.
With no visa required for South Africans (a visitor’s permit is issued on arrival to all passport holders) and a direct 3.5-hour flight from Johannesburg, the logistics are surprisingly simple for a destination this exotic.
THE BLUE BOTTOM LINE
Nosy Be is a place for travellers who like their beaches wild, their cocktails strong and their days unscheduled. If manicured lawns and swim-up bars are your vibe, it's not for you. But if you find yourself craving a tropical escape where lemurs outnumber luxury brands, where your lodge owner might double as your dive instructor, and where adventure comes with a side of local rum, you’ll find your kind of paradise here.
• Disclaimer: The author has a professional interest in Madagascar and is involved in promoting travel to the region.
